Bungle Bungles and Lake Argyle

Stopping in the East Kimberley to work as a film runner for 9 weeks, has been one of the most fortunate, unexpected, absurd and unbelievable experiences I could never have imagined doing.

Last weekend I joined Julie, one of our Producers, plus a couple of tourists on a scenic flight over Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungle), and Lake Argyle. 

Our ride

Diversion Dam leading in to Kununurra

There were still a few fires burning, so unfortunately it was quite smoky. Not perfect for photos, but the view was still great.

I realise that the point of a scenic flight is to go slow so you can take it all in, but I secretly wished our pilot/plane would go faster. Our little 6 seater was like putting wings on a Volkswagen and chugging along above the ranges. Not the safest feeling in the world, but there hadn't been an 'incident' since a crash 4 weeks ago, so um, I had hopes another wasn't due.

Bow River 

We flew over Bow River, made famous in song by Cold Chisel. Apparently guitarist Ian Moss's brother worked here, and his tales from here were inspiration for the song. I can't find any reference to this anywhere, so will just have to take the word of our pilot. (Who looked about 22yo, and has lived here since May)

Flying over Lake Argyle was fascinating. Covering over 1000 square kilometres, it's the 19th largest lake in Australia. And the second largest man made lake (by volume) in Australia. And the largest freshwater lake in the north of Australia. Our guide obviously shared just the last statistic with us.

The spectacular Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle

Next it was on to the main attraction which was formed over 360 million years ago, the Bungle Bungle Ranges. For an area so old, and large - is that it was really only 'uncovered' in 1983. Up until then it was known mostly by local Aboriginals, stockmen, farmers and a few helicopter pilots. 28 years ago a film crew were in the area, and a chopper pilot offered to take the cameraman for a look at the hidden ranges, and obviously when he returned with footage, word got out!

Bungle Bungle Ranges. Like looking at a Vincent Van Gogh piece of art.

 Bungle Bungles 

After a great view from the air, our little plane landed (safely) and we headed in on foot.

During the Dry season the rocks turn shades of grey, but during the Wet, they are stripes of orange and grey. Although it would be tempting to climb, it's absolutely forbidden as they're sandstone, and would crumble with not too much effort.

It was around this spot that our small group heard rustling in the long grass, and I saw about 50cm of the back end of a snake disappear. It was black and thin, and we've come to the conclusion it was a juvenile King Brown.

The sandstone under the surface

Cathedral Gorge. This is where we stopped for a picnic lunch.

Piccaninny Gorge. You might recognise this spot from the Qantas ad. 

Some Aboriginal art work. There is no story told here, it's more like a signature. See the hand prints?

Elephant Rock

Can you see the Scottish Terrier?

It was great to have a look around not only for ourselves, but also for our film crew. Most of which were heading there to film for the last 3 days of our shoot. We chose not to tell them before they left about the ever increasing presence of snakes. Including the death adder. This information was passed on to them when they arrived so they could be vigilant. And yes, they all came back alive with no snakes incidences.

Death Adder track

After a fantastic day, it was back on the little plane taking in the views of the Lake Argyle Diamond mine on the way back to Kununura.

Coming in to land at Kununurra Airport

I filled in the rest of the week without any troubles at all. We packed up base camp as the crew headed to the Bungles. A big Garage Sale at our production house was really successful as we sold all those things I'd spent the first weeks buying - pillows, camp lights, printers, generators etc, plus all the camp gear.

Olive Python outside the Production House

Then I drove the hired makeup/wardrobe van back to its depot, in Darwin. It's a 812km drive, but I had company with one of the backpackers who had been helping us at camp hitching a ride.

My ride

Stayed the night in Batchelor, on the edge of Litchfield National Park before driving in to Darwin the next morning to return the van and catch a flight back to Kununurra.

Outside my room in Batchelor, WA

That's almost it for this week, but I can't finish without mentioning the cane toads. As the build up to the Wet Season has begun, so have the appearances of these pests. I've run over a couple...and it's horrible. Their heads explode! Probably because the rest of their skin is so thick and rubbery. Eeew!

Cane toad

Simple Stats

Days since departure: 148
Distance travelled: 10,161km (+8701km for work)

Cane toads run over: 2

Snakes run over: 2

Portaloos towed: 2

Weeks worked as Runner on film: 9

Whale Sharks swum with: 2

Emergency mechanic stops: 1

Kangaroos hit: 0