Roadkill Highway

Leaving Mt Isa there's a fork in the road. You take the left to head up through Charters Towers, with the most direct route to Cairns. If you go right you'll pass through Longreach, plus the mining towns of Emerald, Sapphire & Rubyvale. I knew that once I'd hit the coast and got out of the hot desolate country I wouldn't want to go back. So I took the long way.

The thing I will always, ALWAYS remember about this drive, is the roadkill! I have never seen so much in my life. From kangaroos, to lizards, cows, wild pigs and emus. As Jean Claude (Camper Van Damn!) doesn't have very efficient air con, I generally drive with the window down, and even if couldn't see it, the stench of death certainly made its way to me. 

As you can see from my photo there's not much to look at for hundreds of kms, so for just 1 kilometre I counted. 37. That's how many different bits of roadkill I spotted. Bored? Me?

The first place I stopped on this drive was a town called Winton. It was here that Banjo Patterson wrote and first performed 'Waltzing Matilda'. This town is also where Qantas was formed, and there's also a number of visible dinosaur footprints in the area. A really nice little town, with some great history. 

Banjo Patterson statue, Winton, Qld

From here I moved on to Longreach to camp for the night. You could stay in the caravan park and pay $30, OR camp by the river just out of town where it's quiet, picturesque and peaceful, WITH toilets, and pay nothing. Not a hard choice.

Camped here overnight, just outside Longreach

Not too long after Qantas was formed in Winton, the headquarters moved just up the road to Longreach where there's a museum and a number of planes to look around and through. And of course the original hanger. Wonder how business is there this week!!!

Qantas museum, Longreach, Qld

The original Qantas hanger, Longreach, Qld

The Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame, Longreach, Qld

From there I continued on to the Gemfields area with the towns Rubyvale, Sapphire and Emerald. Rubyvale is a nice little spot if you ever get a chance to visit.

The BIG Spanner, Sapphire, Qld

One of many times crossed on the Capricorn Highway

In Emerald I managed to add to my collection of BIG things, with something I'd never heard of. The BIG Easel holds Van Gogh's Sunflowers, the largest painting in the world on an easel.

The BIG Easel, Emerald, Qld 

The BIG Easel, Emerald, Qld

And just for anyone who's interested, it's around now that JC has started to backfire again, thankfully just after driving through the Great Dividing Ranges. He did it tough on that drive, but we made it!

Simple Stats

Days since departure: 184
Distance travelled: 16315km (+8701km for work)

Lizards run over: 12

Cane toads run over: 3

Snakes run over: 2

Portaloos towed: 2

Weeks worked as Runner on film: 10

Whale Sharks swum with: 2

Emergency mechanic stops: 2

Kangaroos hit: 0

Alice Springs to Mt Isa

The most I've paid for fuel is $2.08. It was at Kings Creek, on the way out to Kings Canyon (between Uluru & Alice Springs. Now anything under $1.60 seems like a bargain! Maybe next time I do this trip I'll get one of these little numbers.......

But not this one.

I saw these solar cars taking place in the World Solar Challenge, as I left Alice Springs to once again head north towards Tennant Creek. These three were the last in the race, most of the others had already crossed in to South Australia.

I'd stayed in Alice a little longer than I'd planned to because of a mechanical problem which no one wanted to fix. Trying to get a mechanic to help me out within a week was a near impossible task, maybe because I knew what the problem was, or maybe because it was a small job. I don't know. Either way, I eventually found my way to a couple of Indian guys who were only too happy to help. With a big roll of gaffer tape, my problem was patched up, and with a few thousand kilometres ahead of me....good to go!

Tennant Creek

A few hundred kms out of Alice Springs JC wasn't feeling too good driving like I had the hand break on, and I started to worry a little. It's not the greatest place to break down. Hot and remote, and with Barrow Creek being the closest  town, a little creepy. It was in this area that a British tourist went missing 10 years ago, and I just wanted to get out of there!

I don't know how or why, but out of the blue JC picked up the pace, and has been fine ever since. That gaffer tape must have just kicked in to gear.

After camping the night in Tennant Creek I headed off the next day towards Queensland. There were so many whirly whirly's on this drive, which are amazing to watch in the distance as they pick up ash from recent fires. Not so amazing when you drive through them!

Small whirly whirly

We made it!

It has been brilliant for this trip to have my ipod with me, and I mix it up between playing my favourite albums, to playlists, or just put it on shuffle if I can't decide. And it's usually pretty loud. On this part of the trip I had it on shuffle. In the middle of absolutely nowhere I came across some roadworks that I had to stop for, and it was at THIS point one of the songs from Bridget Jones Diary came on. Jamie O'Neil singing "All by myself.....don't wanna be....all by myself". I don't see other people for miles, so why oh why did it have to be THEN that the most embarrassing song in my collection comes on?!!!!

"don't wanna be...."

Another one of the lucky lizards

Mount Isa

Eventually I made it to Mount Isa. Famous for its mines, and birthplace to a number of celebrities. Greg Norman, Pat Rafter, Deborah Mailman, Altyon Childs (?!!) Not the most beautiful place I've visited, but it serves its purpose. Fuel, food, and a highway that leads me east!

Simple Stats

Days since departure: 178
Distance travelled: 15226km (+8701km for work)

Lizards run over: 12

Tropic of Capricorn crossed: 3

Cane toads run over: 2

Snakes run over: 2

Portaloos towed: 2

Weeks worked as Runner on film: 10

Whale Sharks swum with: 2

Emergency mechanic stops: 2

Kangaroos hit: 0

Uluru (Ayers Rock)

I had no idea just how excited I was to see Uluru, until I was about 50km away from it. The last bit of the drive from Alice Springs just dragged, and I kept my eye on the horizon almost as much as on the road.

It's such an iconic piece of Australia, and tourists from all over the world make sure they see it, yet I still hadn't done so. Until now.

The colours change every few minutes at sunset

It took my breath away. I suppose because it wasn't a 'new' sight, but one that was very familiar and I was getting the chance to see it with my own eyes.

The local aboriginal people request that you don't climb the rock, it's not the right thing to do. There's a big sign that tells you this, right underneath the area of the chain leading to the top. It wasn't really a dilemma for me. They've asked us not to, so I didn't. Plus, it was closed because the wind was too strong  at the summit that day, and it's REALLY steep!

The walk. That chain looks vertical to me!

JC liked the rock so much he put it on his roof rack to try to take home.

Then it was a drive just up the road to Kata Tjutu (the Olgas)

And back to Yulara, the resort/town just outside the National Park. I headed to the outdoor bar for some dinner, and although the place was full, it was almost silent. It was Wallabies Vs All Blacks on the big screen, and I'm predicting there weren't any Kiwi's in the bar that night. (Or they were smart, silent ones). 

My last glance

Heading back in to Alice Springs the next day, I had to stop and get a photo of these things I'd noticed on my way out. They were everywhere! It looked like a truck had lost a load of fruit along the way, but I've since discovered (thanks to my Facebook friends) that they are paddy melons. Not good for eating, unless you're a camel.

paddy melons

I also upped my statistics on killing lizards. I TRIED not to!

One of the lucky ones

A dilemma? Not really.

Simple Stats

Days since departure: 176
Distance travelled: 14074km (+8701km for work)

Lizards run over: 9

Tropic of Capricorn crossed: 2

Cane toads run over: 2

Snakes run over: 2

Portaloos towed: 2

Weeks worked as Runner on film: 10

Whale Sharks swum with: 2

Emergency mechanic stops: 1

Kangaroos hit: 0

Darwin to Alice Springs

I have a very sweaty face. When I lean forward the sweat actually drips off. If this is what's involved in experiencing what is known as the 'build up' to the Wet season, I'm not a fan. But I need one.

Darwin is a really great place, but it would probably have been quite a different experience if I didn't have the air conditioned hospitality of my cousin Carmen and her family Cameron, Cooper & Claudia. And their air conditioned car. And pool. Thankyou!

As I'd spent some time in Darwin previously, this time it was about catching up with some friends, relaxing, getting a haircut, and JC needed a service. I managed to do a few touristy things too, including heading out to the Adelaide River to experience the 'Jumping Crocs' cruise.

The crocs hear the sound of the boat and come looking for the pork chop that gets hung over the side of the boat, and the regulars get their daily snacks. It's pretty amazing to see them up so close.

This one's not real. Very lifelike though you'd have to agree.

Can you see the 3 crocs coming towards us?

As the boat pulls out from the jetty we're given the safety briefing, where the skipper goes through the location of the safety flotation devices in case you should fall over the edge. As he points out, if someone ends up in the water, throw a floaty at the croc and get the hell out asap!

Getting that tail working ready for the jump.

Look how much strength is in the tail to get all 4 feet out!

Big croc.

Kites

I learnt something new on this trip about these birds, the 'kite'. They're firebugs! I saw them a lot in the Kimberley scavenging around bush fires waiting for their prey to flee. Well once the fires burn down and no more prey is escaping, they pick up small sticks with embers and drop them in another patch to start a new fire...to get more food! They're not very popular around these parts.

What are you looking at?

So after a week of relaxing and exploring Darwin, my journey headed 1500kms south to Alice Springs. It's a long drive. A reaaaaallllly long drive, so I broke it up in to a few days so I could take my time and enjoy the views and sites along the way. One thing you can't miss is all the termite mounds of varying shapes, sizes and colour. But I had to stop and get a photo of the most unique one I spotted.

Termite mound. What do you think? Someone tampered with it?

I stopped in Mataranka on my first night, and for the second time, checked in to a motel. There was a huge electrical storm happening and unless JC was built with a lightning repellant that I don't know about, it certainly didn't feel too safe. I don't know if I've ever experienced being in such a crazy loud/bright/wet storm. This might be normal around these parts, but it's not for me! He got a good clean though. It was also still 34C at 10pm, so I was pretty keen to enjoy the air conditioned room too.

Enjoying the Mataranka rain.

Apart from the film 'We of the Never Never' (which I haven't seen), Mataranka is most famous for its thermal springs. I went for a dip in Bitter Springs the morning after the storm, and was the only person there. You're supposed to be able to see turtles swimming around the bottom, but the previous nights storm must have kept them away too. Though perhaps a bit warm at 33C in the water, it was still nice.

Bitter Springs, Mataranka

Bitter Springs

I continued south calling in to Daly Waters to visit one of the oldest (and maybe most unique) pubs in the Northern Territory. 

Australia's most remote traffic lights. They don't change colour. I waited.

This was the site of the first International Airport in Australia, and refuelled planes, and passengers en route to London in the 1920's. It still gets loads of international visitors calling in and leaving mementos. Like a bra, or library card, or foreign currency. I left nothing but a smile and a whiff of Eau De Michelle.

Daly Waters Pub

Daly Waters Servo

What more could you want?

Next I camped in Tennant Creek, with only 500kms to cover the next day. Easy! 

First stop was Devils Marbles. It's around 100km drive from Tennant Creek, and I think in that time I saw only 1 other car. It felt, and is, very remote.

JC with Devils Marbles

Devils Marbles, NT

Wycliffe Well, NT. There's something out there!

Before I left that morning, I got a text message from my Mum, which in itself is an achievement. But it was also something I could use. She said to check the fire situation as she'd heard there were some near Alice Springs. The local radio station confirmed it, so I called in to the police station to see if they knew what the deal was. Apparently it was "nothing to worry about for this drive, there might be a few flames near the side of the road, and you might see some smoke, but nah, no dramas!"

So you can imagine how confused....and cautious I was as I started driving towards this..........

I did have a little panic moment, but other cars were coming my way, and no one was stopping me, so I pushed on. Obviously, I survived, and hardened up.....a little.

BIG statues. Aileron, NT

BIG naked man. Aileron, NT

Nearing the end of the day I crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. I loved this moment, because I was no longer in 'the tropics', meaning my face wouldn't be so sweaty. It's these small things that please me.

Then 1500kms later, I made it to Alice Springs. Only for a short while, but I'll be back soon to look around more thoroughly.

Simple Stats

Days since departure: 168
Distance travelled: 12,672km (+8701km for work)

Lizards run over: 1

Tropic of Capricorn crossed: 2

Cane toads run over: 2

Snakes run over: 2

Portaloos towed: 2

Weeks worked as Runner on film: 10

Whale Sharks swum with: 2

Emergency mechanic stops: 1

Kangaroos hit: 0